Marc by Marc Jacobs S/S 2009 Review by Peter

The men of Marc Jacobs are used to standing politely behind the celebrated party frocks and day dresses of his second label. And at first look you're probably tempted to sideline the men's line below as only making incremental advances away from a tired Ralph Lauren standard. But to me, the men's line is worth celebrating because of its mix of comfort and smart fashion. What success is there when arguably the hottest, most virile guys out there look terrible in today's look? No-ass jeans, torn fishnet tops (really?), spangly suits. I know it's an old complaint, and the response usually is, well these are guys that don't want to take chances. When really, it's just hard for jock-boy fashion to be different, clever, but also discreet. You're going to have fun dressing up your boy this year.


Nice riff off a rugby shirt pattern, great hat.















"Yo, what's up." In many configurations, he mixed up college lacrosse player aggression with the deep necklines and multiple beaded necklaces usually worked by shady party promoters. And finally, wearable knickers.



Bright colors that won't scare a Teva sandal-wearing, Skoal Bandit-spitting boy smoking his sticky buds out of a soda can (thanks to Family Guy's Stewie Griffin for the descriptor). Also, I gotta find his barber.


Another Bruce Weber-worthy boy. I love the model's tragic expression too, like he's rehearsing lines for an old Obsession ad.












The guys also got a Continental look variation. I like the way he cuts his jackets - more like a leather jacket than a sport coat. In the non-metallic fabric versions, it created a nice sense of menace. Too many designers when going for this thinner cut make it look too tidy and English. An acquaintance thought the jackets were very Eastern European hoodlum - I like the idea of walking around the streets of New York in a sort of live version of Grand Theft Auto(you can call me Boris). Nice use of old man carpet pants.












OK, now that you have your arm candy sorted out, let's figure out what you're going to wear.
























I love the oddly compatible frilliness and humbleness of this dress. Plus, this would be a good time to draw attention to all the flats in the collection. They are great for when you want to walk around and wear a dress. Sneakers are wrong, ballet flats are flimsy, flip-flops too downmarket. Most designers throw in the towel with some hard-to-lace gladiators (which are also bound to become too ubiquitous). And these days, walking is the new taxi ride - women are adventurous and self-reliant, no more hothouse flowers! Plus, you can't window-shop from a taxi.


Nice repurposing of grandpa's overcoat.



If my preteen dressed like this, I'd say to her in a deep Dark Vader voice: "When you came to me you were but a student, now you are the master." And I would totally do it while dropping her off at school in front of all her friends. ("Dad you are totally embarassing me! Go away!") But I'd tell her to lose the Lincoln Brigade bandana and side bandolier jewelry because they are a little too wise for her age ("Daddy, stop editing me!").



Good layering possibilities for this outfit. It's a bit too monochrome bright otherwise, although here he distracts from that well with a striped satchel strap. I keep thinking about that sweethearted full skirt billowing out princess-like as she takes a seat at a picnic on a date. Jacobs showed a number of skirt and short patterns with a harlequin influence, but they always came across as more Pagliacci than Bozo, carrying a certain lovely sadness, here found in the seemingly hand-drawn geometric pattern.























Black Flag and lace.






















Now, how badly does this beat a caftan as a cover-up? Also suitable for any bar in the tropics. The trouble is when you see a pack of these waiting outside on a New York City nightclub line in the chilly middle of March. No!