Oscar de la Renta S/S 2009 Review by Peter!

We know that Sr. de la Renta is the default choice for a put-together, polished wardrobe. However, it is easy to forget that he's still a design leader for those who want a little more than polish. Even his more adventurous productions have such a harmony and seamless ensemble quality, however, that it is difficult to package his more youthful clothes for a particular marketable trend or clever feature.

For example, Marc Jacobs can show a loose high-waisted pant held with a utility belt, and you think, hey that's nifty. And when I see it on the street I'll notice the combination, and get the reference, and move on. But it takes effort to deconstruct a de la Renta, for your first and persistent thought is, "Wow. Wow." If you had to be more specific? Ridiculously seductive. Awe-striking. Out of your league. There's always an element - maybe it's an A-line that draws your focus, like a great painter, to the face - there's always something that brings your focus to the eyes of the wearer. It could just be that you want to look in those eyes to ask, who is this amazing person? For me, the following three outfits best accomplished that aura this year:




























The simplicity of the last two designs above show the overriding importance of construction. No other New World designer gets the stiffness of fabric, and inner architecture of the dress, so right. The gift of creating (or discovering) prints like these is not all that's going on here.










And some highlights from the rest of the collection:






















I love when Oscar goes all Stepford Wife entering the sexual revolution.






















The clothes that make Charlize Theron burn in men's memories.






















Fall of the House of Usher, and she opens the door. At crack of close thunder, a wild and sublime face lights briefly before me out of the dark. "Listen," I exclaim, "I know the castle is about to collapse, but I'd like to come in and talk it over."











Oscar de la Renta's market is famously moneyed, older, and white, but some of his designs would look just tootraditional and safe for that demographic. They end up matching well to a more exotic look, though, forming a compelling amalgam of mystery and grandeur.







There is something about the cut and print of this dress that I think would also give a shorter woman a lot of height and presence.


























Vamping courtesy of our own Alice. ("Peter, you can't say that. oh my God. it's crazy but it's true.") Great sunglasses as well.
Peter