Monday, March 09, 2009

Charles Anastase, Roksanda Ilincic and Prada F/W 2009 Fashion Show Review by Peter

Everyone this season is worried there will be too many safe looks for sale in Fall, but Anastase and Ilincic presented some nice counterpunch numbers for those who don't want to go down without a fight. Eccentricity and whimsy put their dress on for a society dinner.

Anastase. An apparition of the brunette Bush twin, spotted floating down a hallway of the White House dba the Overlook Hotel.

Ilincic. Player-card jokers, human chess boards, party for the museum trustees.

Ilincic. Accessorizing a dress from too safe to: Josie and the Pussycats, music festival itinerant, girl in scary basement Yugoslavian bar. You can replace the cat ears with vine if you want to look less runway.

Ilincic. It is difficult to design for the slightly manly woman, but here we see a way to convey both design savvy (with those Michael Jackson jazzed shoulders), and sexiness (a low cut jacket that does not try to hide an aggresive body and face, but does still signal its feminine side). Don't get me wrong, tranny styling has its place, but I also like the availability and appeal of this alternative.

Ilincic. Rich, shiny brocades and embroidered lace do not have to be limited to the de la Renta Queen of Court. Here, it is sexy bratty, a 20-something downtown private school punk used to being spoiled by the attention of men.

Thick flannel came in out of the cold at the Prada show, in coats and dresses that carried the best of everything we fell in love with in 30s and 40s British cinema. From The Lady Vanishes to Lassie Come Home, Prada brought back brave wartime heroines, a spunky Elizabeth Taylor in tweeds, and Hitchcockian wanderers on the moors. Incidentally, the lighting in this show deserves great credit. Let's face it, most runway prints have the atmosphere of a tween pageant at the Garden State Mall.

"Oh, Heathcliff!" galloping insanely over the heath, and then pleasantly tidied-up and severe between the wars.

This looks so much sultrier just by being done in such a serious color thick wool flannel.

In an RL cut, this would be typical equestrian kingmaking, but in Prada it carries a certain sophisticated whimsy, flair, and vulnerability.

In this Prada getup, you could join the Anastase and Ilincic gals at the artists' bar.

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