This dress could be worn by the young and fun, with its bright base color, in contrast to some of the other prints in the collection, which came off as matronly. It's also a good way to work in one of the natty wide-brim hats he featured.

Some wearable, smart whimsies built into a wardrobe basic top. Nicely intermingled shine and fragility.


Anna Sui

She claimed to be working under the pull of Busby Berkeley, but it struck me more as a rainbow-hued Culture Club. Neither of these themes appeared, however, in this summoning of the Zodiac:

This would be useful as a swimsuit cover-up for a sandy dance floor somewhere. That purply hair ribbon is, like, hip and spiritual.


Vera Wang

The inclusion of only two photos here underplays this designer. It's just that photography does a poor job of capturing her strengths. Rich colors, romantic folds and fabrics, silhouettes under translucencies - all diminish under thumbnail view. She talked about an ancient Roman influence in her Spring collection, but a green floor-length dress by lesser designers might simply mimic a toga. An extended glance at her version, though, shows slim long body shadows swimming under a jade lake fall. Here are a few (more easily visible) examples of her CK-like illusory simplicity.

A good way for the "I only wear black" crowd to soften their look without breaking rank.


The styling here is bland, but I was struck by the versatility of this skirt. With a stiff blouse its length makes it hater-safe as workplace gear, in other configurations it looks great at night.


Donna Karan

DK went wrong only when she tried to be too safe. Chalk it up to a legitimate worry about narrowcasting - her best designs were a blessing to blond, Californian women in their fourth and fifth decade, the kind who love the beach and love to work out. Given the admirable qualities of that demographic - loving mothers, still vivaciously engaged in flirtation - there was an pressing need to rescue them from a sea of spandex and, on the other end of the spectrum, a Footballer's Wivesbacklash that threatens to banish even well-earned va-va-voom. Bold golds, magnetic blocking choices, and great movement below:

Next up - Paris.