Ralph Lauren

I had some trouble with this collection, specifically, RL's equestrian and Altman movie garden party designs. I thought his Gatsby dress-ups lacked individual character, as though he were costuming a period drama instead of conveying a personality.

As for the equestrian theme, I think he missed the appeal of the look to women (credibility disclosure: I am not a woman). I think equestrian can appeal as a return to the solitude of a tomboy and her horse, predating certain self-conscious flinching and grief (caused by men? imperious mothers? equal blame?). RL, instead, goes past this peaceful adrogyny into manly page-boys and gadabout in spats.

Apart from these two thematic misses, though, RL also showed the following: